RICHARDS BAY AIRPORT
We flew from OR Tambo International (Johannesburg, also called Joburg) to a very small airport called Richards Bay – in the southeast. The plane was small – if you’re fearful of being in 20-seaters, then this is not a good option for you. You can fly to the much larger Durban International airport. However, Richards Bay is only about 1 ½ hours from Zulu Nyala whereas Durban is about 3 hours. The shuttle is an air-conditioned van with about 9 or so seats, and they will give you a bottle of water, but you’ve got to be committed to the idea of being on a shuttle bus for 3 hours. If you have a longish wait, you can go to the upstairs Bidvest Lounge (you’ll need a Priority Pass or similar – or I think you can pay about $20 for a pass, we used our AmericanExpress Priority Pass card). The lounge is worth the comfort and coffee. There’s a decent food selection in the lounge – and alcoholic beverages.
We saw lots of fields, eucalyptus tree groves, villages and huts, middle-class homes, and lots of people walking along the roadways. More flat land than I expected and a variety of things for sale. All on the drive from Richards Bay to the resort.
ACCOMMODATIONS
We were greeted by the Zulu Nyala driver. (Note: we had sent an email to Zulu Nyala to let them know when our plane was arriving.) There were six of us, all Americans, headed to the lodge. The driver loaded our bags, handed us bottled water, then off he went. The drive was one-and-a-half hours long, the same length as the flight. The Heritage Lodge people were dropped off first – a group of four. I couldn’t get a good view of the front of the Heritage building, covered by trees, the configuration of the entrance, etc., but I understand it’s very large. It’s also the area with the tented facilities (I was told there was no air conditioning in the tent spaces). There is no internet in the rooms and barely internet in the reception, the dining area had better reception. Still, it disconnected a lot.
About 2-3 miles away is the next stop, the Game Lodge. A bumpy ride along a dirt road. That’s where Steve and I stayed. It had been recommended by friends to ask for a room overlooking the pool and view, which we did and were very thankful for. The view is simply stunning – a panorama of dense jungle forests and overlapping mountains. The mornings are colorful blues, oranges, pinks with wispy fog just above the tree line, and grays, blues and green mountains in the background. It’s a great upgrade, and some of the people we talked to who did not upgrade, wished they had. Folks actually did change their rooms a few days in.
DEFINITELY UPGRADE
The Game Lodge is quieter than the Heritage, I’m told. There are still animals about the grounds, especially in the early mornings – such as monkeys, nyalas (which look like antelopes with stripes), wild boar…others I could barely make out. Mostly nyalas who seem cool with people as long as you don’t get too close. You’ll be told to not interact with the monkeys. They may be cute, but they’re vicious little buggers. Tons of geckos on the walls near the restaurant and other buildings. Luckily, I haven’t seen anything other than an occasional bug in the room. I think it’s only about $200 more per week to upgrade your room.
The room is large, clean, and updated. No TV. There’s an air conditioning unit and a large overhead fan. The first few days we only used the overhead fan, but these last two days we’ve had the aircon at 20-celsius. The tub is stylistically quaint and large, the shower could fit about 10 people, though I’m not recommending that many bodies at one time – there’s just one showerhead.
The pool isn’t too deep, I was perfectly fine swimming back and forth. Steve and I were the only two mucking about in the pool. In a perfectly relaxed state, I floated on my back thinking about the giraffes, rhinos, elephants, children, teachers, South Africans waving hello, other tourists, tasty fruit, and unbelievable vistas I had seen throughout the day.
FOOD – 3 MEALS A DAY
The food is okay, but definitely not great. The first night the food was not good at all. The steak was inedible and the yellowtail fish was overcooked, as were the vegetables. Drinks cost extra (except bottled water and juices). We told the manager (Greg) about the meal. He was on his third day working at Zulu Nyala, having come from Cape Town. He mentioned he was going to be interviewing a head chef within a couple of days. The following days the food was much better, though nothing especially terrific. On day three they served venison (impala) which was served at a carving station, buffet style. The salads are still good as are the soups – interesting and tasty. They seem to like “puree-ing” the soups, such as tomato, potato and leek, and broccoli. Some days it’s best just to stick with the soup and salad. Warning, they have an affinity for barbecue sauce on a lot of their meats. Ugh.
I also like the breakfasts – there are only slight variations each day. Some days it’s served a la carte (if there are not enough guests) and some days buffet style. You can have chopped fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew as well as mango, fresh pineapple, and grapes. There are two kinds of yogurt, granola, cold cereals, toasts as well as any kind of eggs you wish, sausages, bacon (it’s not American-style bacon), and sometimes beans and (separately), liver. No, thank you. One morning they had pancakes and one morning they had French toast.
Probably the most important thing here is the meat. They’re big on meat here – “venison.” The venison is impala or nyala. I know what you’re thinking, and the answer is NO, they don’t shoot the Zula Nyala animals to feed the guests – they purchase the meat elsewhere. Oh yea, the curries are good. Lamb curry or chicken curry, either one, is pretty good.
[Side note, a tour guide told me, “we offer lots of meats like cow’s head, beef, venison, lamb, goat – and for dessert, we have chicken.” Vegans and vegetarians take note: Meat is a king here.]
There’s a good amount of wines to choose from. I tried two South African bottles so far – a shiraz and a popular South African red. The shiraz was about 500 rand ($31) while the popular was 350 rand ($21). The shiraz was tastier, a little drier, and went well with venison – okay, I admit, I didn’t eat the venison – Steve tried it. He said it was delicious and tender. I did try the roasted lamb – just a small portion – prepared at a carving station. It was excellent. There are plenty of choices if you’re a vegetarian – rices, potatoes, vegetables like stuffed squash with spinach, ratatouille, vegetable-based soups, salads, cheeses, and breads.
ABOUT THOSE SAFARIS
If you’re staying in the Game Lodge, you’ll likely have to awaken somewhere around 5AM. That’s five-in-the-morning-AM. You read that right. Inhuman time. I’m not an early riser, so yes, I went to bed at 9PM in the hopes that I’d fall asleep. I did manage to wake at 5AM and get everything done for our 5:40AM pick-up. You catch the Land Cruiser with your designated ranger just outside the reception area. They’ll tell you about that when you first check-in. Our ranger was named Sandiso.
Now it’s possible you’ll be able to sleep in a little longer, and your ranger will pick you up at 6AM instead. Depends on whether the ranger is picking up others at the Heritage Lodge first or you first. You’re allowed to opt out of any safari, but I wouldn’t advise it as in the morning there’s tons of activity. You do need to tell the reception if you decided you don’t want to go on a safari at any particular time – as they don’t want to waste the ranger’s time.
You’re also offered an afternoon safari – at 3PM. The afternoon has different kinds of action. You never know what you’ll see from one safari to the next. In case you’re not aware, there are (technically) no meat-eating animals in this reserve. That is to say, no tigers, lions, leopards, or cheetahs that are “officially” part of this reserve. Yesterday, leopards party-crashed Zulu Nyala from another reserve, looking for “snacks.” They were definitely successful in finding a meal, according to some tourists we encountered at supper. They saw the remains of an impala. Other tourists also saw a cheetah from the other side of a fence (again, from another reserve). Steve and I saw no such cat action.
On the first day we opted out of the 3PM safari because we had only ten minutes to get to our rooms and go. We were too beat to do that – so we let them know and the very next morning we were up bright-eyed and excited to see the wild animals. No breakfast before going on a safari (breakfast is from 7-9:30AM). You can eat when you get back. You could make instant coffee or tea in your room. About the Coffee Sitch: instant coffee is a thing here. It’s the method of offering you the much-needed drink. First, you’re like, “what? Instant, no no no. I NEED brewed.” But then desperation kicks in and you make a friggin pot of hot water and think, “how bad can it be,” and yes, you’ll be disappointed but you’ll drink it. After all, it’s FIVE-FRIGGIN-IN-THE-MORNING. Steve was satisfied with water. Non-coffee drinkers can be annoying. They just don’t get it.
The first morning we saw a lot of animals from the get-go on our drive to pick up the Heritage lodgers. On the safari with our group (one set missed their wakeup call so it was just Steve, myself and a young Israeli couple) we saw zebras, giraffes in the distance, and a totally-alpha female mama elephant that didn’t want us on the roadway. She was grazing with her 16-year-old baby and her sister, ripping apart tree limbs all willy-nilly and pulling up some of that plentiful long grass. Munch munch munch. Ten minutes in she did a side-eye glare at us, flared her big ears and marched with a “Whaddaya think you’re staring at” look directly toward the back of our Land Cruiser. The young Israeli girl got up from her seat and let out a panic-filled English phrase of “Oh my god, oh my god, oh my god.” Her frightened male partner cowered along with his partner in the corner of the truck. I want to say the young man was protecting the young woman, but then I’d be exaggerating. The excitement for the day.
The ranger drove about 30 ft forward, and within a couple more minutes that mama elephant marched toward us again. She came within about 3 feet of the Israeli couple.
By the second safari at 3PM, we saw nearly every kind of animal on the reserve, including the warthogs. We saw tons of different kinds of birds as well, and both the white rhinos (females and babies) and the black rhinos (male, female, and baby). Yes, it’s fascinating and too difficult to convey the feeling of seeing these animals in this setting.
Geotagging was turned off on photos – sadly, the rhinos’ horns are highly sought-after and poaching is a constant threat. There were plenty of rhino crews, lookout tours and other means of protecting the reserve’s rhino population.
When we saw the impalas or nyalas, I asked why they didn’t run off. The ranger told me they are used to seeing the trucks and people, however, if we step out of the truck, they’ll dart. They only have so much trust. He also explained thoroughly about animal behavior and danger. He wanted to be sure we understand that screaming, sudden movements, loud talking, flailing arms, and even direct speech toward the animals was a big no-no. Wild animals are so instinctual, that they’ll interpret movement and sound the way they know best – and that could be a pounce. No, there are no bars or protective fencing on the truck. One must be cognizant of the ranger’s advice and the surroundings.
Our group included what I can only assume was a hearing-impaired elderly couple from the US. The Israeli couple was timid and quiet, but the elderly couple was loud and talkative. Sometimes they asked Sandiso some personal questions. They were just curious and generally nice people, but oh so talkative during the safari. If you watch any of my videos, you hear them making comments, asking questions, and joking around.
Don’t be fooled by the animals seemingly in a state of tranquility, they are, in fact, tolerant for the moment because they don’t sense danger. However, if they’d been fighting with other species or their own kind, they’ll be high-pissed-offedness, and could attack if one gets too close. Hence, the rangers are on a constant lookout for signs of stress, particularly the rhinos, elephants, and cape buffalos.
I learned from Sandiso that sometimes the elephants just want to push the boundaries, that they don’t really want to attack or anything, but they want to see how they can “push us around.” Sometimes the rangers hold their ground. No sense in letting the elephants always win.
It can be a little cool in the morning, and as the truck is going along, it’ll feel even cooler. It’s best to bring a light jacket or sweater. I was fine and didn’t need a jacket, but I can see where some people were definitely surprised by the coolness. Bring a backpack and put your water bottles (they give each person a bottle of water in your room each day), a jacket, bug spray a wide-brimmed hat, camera, sunglasses if you need them, and hand wipes. I didn’t find binoculars helpful, but I saw others using them. You don’t really need them.
It can be a very bouncy ride, but the ranger (who is also the driver) is cautious and drives slowly over those inevitable road ruts. A tourist from Portland, Oregon said she wished she had brought a stadium pillow for the safari rides. (Good idea.)
By day two of safari rides, you’re likely to have seen every kind of animal at Zulu Nyala – along with some crazy big-ass spiders and humongous spider webs, birds, bugs, snakes, and other crawly creatures. Tell you what, I was pretty excited to see that dung beetle pushing that poo all around. I heard another group saw a dung beetle pushing a LARGER ball of dung, with a female dung beetle riding on top of the ball. Dang. Would’ve loved to have seen that!
The rangers will likely drive up high in the hills so that you’ll see magnificent landscape views. I’m not gonna try to describe them. It’s something you have to experience.
There are 5,000 miles in this reserve with lots of different roads. The animals apparently congregate in certain locations based on the watering holes, migration patterns, and food sources. At times you’ll see several different species in one area, practically hanging out together. We visited some of the same watering holes a couple of times, sometimes seeing the same animals, sometimes different animals.
I did not see much of the hippo, just its ears and eyes barely poking out of the muddy water. I’ve heard other tourists had seen the hippos more clearly out of the water, though it was late in the day. The hippos lives in the water like a gazillion hours, then come out at night to feed on grass. Below is a video from a side excursion to St. Lucia boat tour and later, the beach. Just thought you might want to see some hippos.
So what’s different from one safari to the next? Not a lot. Last night some nice Michigan people we met told us how there was a crazy territorial disagreement – a rhino didn’t want an elephant in its territory so it charged the elephant. It didn’t run into the elephant. The elephant was like, “are you kidding me? I’m waaaay bigger than you a-hole…” and she trumpeted very loudly, picked up some nearby grasses and twigs, and threw them in the air somewhat toward the rhino. The baby elephant and its Auntie took off running full tilt down the road. But the mama elephant was standing her ground. Mama elephant and the mama rhino had a real back-and-forth (while the baby rhino stayed next to mama). This went on for ten minutes. We missed it because we did a side excursion to St. Lucia. Damn-damn-damn. Also, this same group saw two errant cheetahs from a neighboring reserve, though there were behind the electrified fence. Damn to the nth-power.
You can do two safaris a day the entire time you’re at Zula Nyala. If you wish. One day the ranger offered us a later safari at 5PM (as opposed to 3PM) because sometimes you can see the hippo come out to feed or other unusual things later on. Sundown is around 6:00-6:30, so we said yes to the later safari. We did not see the hippo on that trip.
SIDE TRIPS
For a price, you can do side excursions, which believe me, the staff will definitely tell you about. We kinda mentioned how we were interested in something a little differently than say, petting elephants at a sanctuary. So the ranger told us about the Mbonise Village & School (a local school and home visit). It sounded more up-close and personal of a trip, so we said sure!
The more people that join you on the trip, the less it costs per person. As there were a total of 4 people on this side trip, it cost us $60 per person.
The guide explains it’s nice to “donate” something to the local family you’ll be visiting such as a small bag of sugar, rice, flour, cornmeal – and something for the school kids or school (in this case the guide used the words “stationery” which confused me – like what, they need to write letters or something?). A couple from the Heritage Lodge joined us, and in about 40 minutes we made our first stop at a smallish grocery store, busy with shoppers of all kinds, mostly local people. Locals were buying large sacks of rice and flour (I never did see 5 or 10 lb sacks), prepared foods, spices, and liquor. Typical store. The other couple who were with us, one was a teacher. She bought about $30 worth of pencils, pens, and other “stationery” items (oooohhhhh…that kind of stationery!) and they also purchased about $10 worth of flour, rice, and lollipops. We bought about $30 of cookies, flour, rice, cornmeal, and sugar. The sacks were HUGE, maybe 40 lbs. I know I mentioned this before, but I’m telling you this again because the cost of groceries is significantly less than the U.S. Together we were donating a motherlode of flour, cornmeal, sugar, and rice. It probably would’ve been something like $170+ in the US for all that we bought.
We stopped at the school first. They were welcoming. The guide tried to teach us Isizulu – just a few words. It didn’t go too well. But we learned about the school system, their needs, their curriculum (sadly deficient), the uniforms they have to wear to keep the dirt poor from looking different from the not-dirt poor, the kids, the government contribution, etc. Interesting to be sure. Then we entered a classroom of five-year-olds, about 38 of them, sitting on the floor. Their plastic tables were stacked to the side as were their little plastic chairs. They sang two songs for us, and we handed out cookies and lollipops. They put their tiny hands out and said, “yebo” rather quietly. Yebo means “I see you” and is akin to thank you. Steve did a couple of silly magic tricks which delighted the children.
By the way, the principal of the school was busy teaching a class, but her assistant explained the workings of the school to us. In the end, there was an emphasis on the kid’s uniforms and how the families cannot always afford to buy the child a uniform. So they ask for donations of any amount. For any kind of donation, you can choose an item from their table of handmade things. These were the most adorable items I had seen, and we donated and I chose a handmade doll. The kid’s handmade artwork and dioramas were so cute I really wanted those as well, but we can only bring back so much in our suitcases.
Then we entered the one classroom filled with about 40 six- and seven-year-olds. We gave a quick lesson about what USA stands for by the guide (U is for United….). They looked a little confused. This is the age they only JUST start learning English. It’s very hard for them to learn English. Well, they knew a couple of English songs such as Head-Shoulders-Knees-And-Toes, and again we handed out treats. Again, those tiny hands cupped together and the “yebo” though a tiny bit louder.
In the end, the teacher gave me a huge hug. We gave away the leftover treats to the teacher and headed back to our van. The guide mentioned that his last group didn’t bring treats for the kids, so they were pretty happy we had cookies and candies for them.
For the second part of the trip we drove up a dirt road to a village with lots of small huts. The huts are one-room buildings, sometimes circular, that are for different functions. We entered the head-man’s hut which is the place where the eating and drinking beer happens. Also, bones from animals in honor of dead relatives are kept in that room. On the floor were two carved wooden platters – for meat. The larger platter is from which the women eat, the smaller from which the men eat. Disparity you say? Yup. The women get to eat more because they cook, clean, fetch water, make the fire, tend the animals, make stuff to sell to tourists…you know, same as in America (hee-hee).
We met the family, tried to use our new language greetings…and toured two of the huts, the cooking hut, and the eating hut. The guide tried to sell us their homemade mats (which I liked because they were made out of potato chip bags, but we had only brought enough rand for a tip). The mats were only about $20-$30. They’re lightweight and I’m sure you can bring them as carry-ons if they don’t fit in your suitcase. Watching the women make the mats was fascinating. The women didn’t talk to us, only the guide. The little girl looked up and smiled several times. She was beautiful. I asked if the guide went to different families each visit, and the answer was yes, a different family in the same community.
The next day we did the St. Lucia boat ride – to see the hippos in the estuary. It was a hot boat ride (on the top deck) where we saw a bit of the hippos’ eyes, ears, and tops of their heads bobbing up and down. Sometimes they stayed up a bit – but you rarely saw much more than the tops of their heads. I swear they all looked very Shrek-like. One hippo fought with another. A bit of action for a few moments. But then it ended. We saw a couple of crocodiles and eagles too.
Later we stopped at a restaurant, paid about $15 for two full meals and drinks of huge beef burgers, chips (fries), hake (cod), and cokes. Steve tried something called a Banana Boy – um, that is, a drink, and not what you were just thinking. It was like a banana, caramel, peanut butter (?), and peanuts shake. No thanks.
We were offered an hour to peruse St. Lucia town and its shops – and if you’ve been to some dusty Southern California beach town, it’ll all seem quite familiar to you. I think they’re hoping you’ll drop a few bucks on the trinkets and wares. Steve and I bought a huge wooden rectangular platter for 650 rand ($40). It started at 850 rand (about $53). You’re expected to negotiate. So haggle.
After that hour of shopping, we were dropped off at the nearby beach to spend 45 minutes. The sand is pure, white as anything, soft and the waves were crashing like crazy. It was GORGEOUS. I love being on the beach. The group we were with did not go into the water, but they did go up to it. Steve did some body surfing and was having a jolly good time. He walked me out into the ocean a bit…but fear got the better of me. I held my ground as best I could once the waves started coming up to the tops of my thighs. Damn those waves looked scary. There were a few windsurfers doing their thing and lots of little kids splashing about at the water’s edge. Not getting too chancy with the Indian Ocean.
YES, YOU RETURN BACK FOR FOOD AFTER YOUR EXTRA EXCURSIONS
We made it back to our lodge in time for lunch and another tour. Steve opted to stay behind to catch up on work, but I went on the tour with the talkative elderly couple. The couple was more subdued on this ride. Lack of sleep was catching up to their bodies. On this particular safari we encountered the elephants again, and they tolerated us well. They farted. It sounded a bit bubbly. I’m not doing it justice. It sounded like a TV-sitcom-sound-effect loud bubble popping. And Sandiso laughed and said, “you heard that?” “Oh no,” I replied, “I did hear that! Should we head upwind?” “We’re okay here,” he said. “I wouldn’t have you in that – it is so bad you know.” And he laughed and laughed.
We saw a black cobra and some kind of odd spider or bug (Sandiso said it was a spider) that if you got bit by it, straight to the hospital you go. I asked him if it was called a “hospital spider.” Reminder to look down once in a while. Dung beetles, spiders, and bugs, they’re all so cool to see from the Land Cruiser.
Later, Steve and I spent time relaxing in the pool.
We’re getting ready for our evening safari, beginning at 5PM. I’m excited for this, based on what other tourists have said about the later-day safaris. In the meantime, Steve, who happens to strangely get internet in our room, even though they told us there was no internet in the rooms, is relaying just which airlines are suspending flights. So far, we’re still okay with our flights. But I have a funny feeling. [By Friday, March 20, South African canceled ALL their flights and said no refunds to anyone.]
LATE AFTERNOON/EARLY EVENING SAFARI
The night safari began at 5PM. It gets dark around 6:30 in March. We saw the elephants up close again, for quite a while, as well as a male rhino, a female rhino, and a baby. The youngest elephant made an adorable noise, to let its mother know where it was located, even though it was only about 20 feet away.
It got dark after about an hour and a half of driving the dirt roads through the reserve, and the ranger took out his “torch” (flashlight to us laymen) and drives carefully down the dirt roads, scanning for eyes. This time we saw the warthogs up closer (their behavior changes at night), something called a scarapa (which I thought was a rabbit with a long tail), a white-tailed mongoose (well, only the ranger saw that), lots of zebra, impala, cape buffalos, nyalas, the top of the local hippos in the pond (they hadn’t come out of the water yet), and a couple of small rodents that looked like a fox and a cat. I can’t recall the names of all the creatures. I think the scarapa may have been something called a “viscacha.”
At dusk, the bugs are in full force. If you do this later excursion, bring something to protect your face, and something to sit on like a stadium cushion. I experienced the full effect of bug-splat-in-eyes-cheeks and even my friggin mouth. Oh gawd it wasn’t pleasant. Several times I had to dig bugs out of my ears and my bra. You read that right.
The young couple in the back turned on their cellphone lights and were freaking out in the back seat. That’s when we realized what was going on and we told them to turn off their light so as not to attract more bugs to their backseat collection. The night ended wonderfully as we witnessed an orangey-pink sunset on the hills and lushness of the South African jungle.
THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE’S NIGHT SKY
“What is that? I thought it was the Big Dipper…but…I can see it’s different,” I asked, trying to make out the constellation directly ahead of us.
Sandiso replied, “It’s the Southern Cross…what you would see on our national flag. You won’t be able to see the Big Dipper here because we’re below the equator. That’s what navigators used, the big star right there on the corner.”
Yep, these stars are not constellations I had ever seen in my life (though I had been to Hawaii a few times, I never paid attention to the night skies). I love looking at the constellations from Northeast New England. And here I was, enjoying a brand new collection of star patterns, clearly and easily visible. Simply wondrous.
LAST DAY
Our last safari was not within the Zulu Nyala compound, but about 40 minutes away in a 240,000-acre, national park called Hluhluwe Game Reserve. It’s maintained by the Zulus – and a treat for the senses. The mountains, rolling hills and exceptional lush jungles are so green and natural. We saw a huge herd of elephants marching down the side of a large hill, a rhino that we could practically touch, and a congress of baboons along with a few other animals. It was a rainy day, but we were provided with ponchos and blankets as we trekked throughout the backroads for several hours, stopping only once for breakfast. This was another “add-on” excursion, and as there were four of us, it was something like $90+ per person for this personalized, guided tour. Breakfast off-site at the top of the mountain was $9 per person, served buffet style. The land cruiser was different – with cushier seats for those people with discerning fannies – otherwise the truck was basically the same as the other safari vehicles. There was a “covering” that was utilized to keep out the rain. Still, it’s a wet adventure if it happens to rain that day.
There’s so much more to see. I can’t commit it all to words or a lot of the magic won’t be a surprise. There’s no way to describe the feelings of being in this environment, in nature, in a non-Disney-like park where things are REAL, breathable, where scents are amazing, and tastes are unusual. It’s the feeling you get, that these photos I’ve taken will never be capable of conveying. The feeling that you’re participating in your life and in others’ lives and in a natural-rich spirit.
Just to be clear, you’re always riding in a Land Cruiser when on the Zulu Nyala safari trip with your group and ranger. It’s safe, exciting to see the wild animals on their turf, and for me, it was a relief to know that some of the animals are protected from poachers. That isn’t to say all the animals are protected from predators though. That’s nature and that’s life. Poachers – a whole other story for which they have ways of dealing with them. Admittedly, it’s more “park-like” since you’re in a reserve and the animals don’t seem too bothered by the Land Cruisers. But there’s still danger, there’s still occasional charging and such. Don’t get out of that Land Cruiser!
This was an experience I would gladly do again, though maybe at a different reserve. The sights, sounds, smells, gorgeous early mornings and phenomenal sunsets were soul uplifting.
Look up, look down. Look far ahead. And look closely. You will see so many wonders.
